Category: Eyes

Color Trend: Rose Gold

~ tor ~ Leave a comment

Yesterday was my first official working day for 2017 . Usually, while setting up, I have an inner dialogue about possible eye and lip colour combinations to use on my model/client for that day. As I started setting up my table at Studio 1 in GMA, I subconsciously laid out my favourite Rose Gold eyeshadows. That’s when it all “clicked”.

Cue in Celine Dion’s song, “It’s All Coming Back To Me Now”.

Rose Gold For the New Year Holiday, I was reading the January 2017 issue of Allure Magazine when my eye caught a small advert on the upper right hand side of a page I was perusing. It was for Tweezerman; a Rose Gold Love Story Gift Set. A week before this, I acquired my new Iphone 7… in Rose Gold.

Everything was coming up Rose Gold in my eyes.

I suddenly remembered that I have seen this colour trend late last year on sneakers, heels, bags … even on hair (I first saw this colour on Kylie Jenner in October 2016;  see this post by MTV to see which stars sported the Rose Gold look on their manes).

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Laura Mercier Cream Eyeshadows
Top Swatch: Laura Mercier Metallic Creme Eye Colour in Rose Gold / Bottom Swatch: Laura Mercier Caviar Stick Eye Colour in Rose Gold

I first encountered this colour circa 2008. It was a metallic cream eyeshadow from Laura Mercier Cosmetics. This was a delicate rose coloured eyeshadow with fine gold flecks became my “go-to” eyeshadow. I used it on many shoots and on all of my brides. Either as a single colour wash or as a base colour. The colour gave off a very feminine appearance. Soft and dreamy. I usually use a small flat synthetic brush to apply this. Your fingers can do the trick as well.

The Laura Mercier Caviar Stick Eye Colour was a recent addition (circa 2013). I decided to purchase the Rose Gold version in this product line thinking it would be the same colour as the metallic cream eyeshadow. It is not. It is more gold than pink. The Caviar Stick is relatively easy to use, just run the “stick” along your lids. The pressure of your application can intensify the colour on your lids, so always use soft gentle strokes. I blend this product with my fingers or a synthetic eye shadow brush.

In terms of longevity, the caviar stick lasts longer than the metallic creme eyeshadow. Since it’s very humid here in the Philippines and some women can get quite oily quickly (especially on the eyelids), I enhance the staying power and colour pay off of both products by first applying a generous amount of  Nars Smudge Proof Eye Shadow Base (click to read my blog entry about it) on the lids.

On this photo feature from my Instagram page, for the sake of comparison, I am wearing the Rose Gold Mettalic Creme Eyeshadow on my right eye (your left) and the Rose Gold Caviar Stick Eye Colour on my left eye (your right).

The Laura Mercier Caviar Stick Eye Colour in Rose Gold works very well with Green, Hazel, Blue and Light Brown Eyes. I believe this colour works really well with medium to dark skin tones. If you have very fair/pale skin, I suggest not to use this colour alone because it can make you look “sick”, instead layer together with warm browns/taupes plus add a gold highlight for drama.

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Rose Gold has been around for quite some time. Thanks to the Iphone, it is now a very popular colour. If you are a girl who loves riding on trends, this eye colour is a good way to match those heels of yours. Ok, fine… it would match your new Iphone.

But if you are one of those girls who doesn’t have the care in the world for trends, a girl who prefers to have a “romantic” eye makeup look, then this eye colour is definitely for you.

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Upon writing this blog entry, I decided to check out http://www.lauramercier.com for a price check. I found disappointment instead. The Mettalic Creme Eyeshadows are no longer in production (BOO!). The Caviar Sticks are still around and they retail for $29 / Php 1350. Visit the Laura Mercier Boudoir in Rustan’s to check out the other 18 shades.

 

 

 

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My Smoky Eye Palette

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My Smoky Eye Palette
My Smoky Eye Palette

My previous blog was about my neutral eye shadow palette (click here to read it), and I find it only fitting to talk about my smoky eye palette.

This is a personalized palette of Laura Mercier products that I have been using as long as I can remember. I have used these colors on a lot of fashion shows or on private clients for the entire length of my career.

I personally chose these eye colors from the Laura Mercier line and popped it into her 3-well Custom Compact.

The colors are:

Luster Eye Colour in Celestial, a shimmery gun metal grey color.

Matte Eye Colour in Noir, a deep black color.

Caviar Cake Eye Liner in Noir (It is now discontinued to my absolute horror!).

In a nutshell, when I am creating a classic smoky eye, I apply Noir all over the lids and blend it beyond the socket line. I gradually intensify the color by carefully “building it up” in the upper and lower lash lines. I also add more definition on the socket line by slowly adding the Noir eye shadow. If necessary, to soften the look, I use the color Truffle (click here to see my neutral eye shadow palette)  to diffuse the blackness of the eye shadow.

I line the entire upper and lower lash with the water activated cake eye liner. This is to further give the eyes a smokier appearance. I blend it upwards and outwards when it is 70% dry.

If needed, to add a pop of color, I dab a but of Celestial on the lids or in the inner corner of the eyes.

If I want to intensify the smokyness, I’d use Bobbi Brown’s gel eyeliner in Black Ink along the upper lash line. Click here to read my experience with that product.

I finish the look with some mascara and/or false eyelashes.

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Here’s a look I created using this palette.

View this post on Instagram

#testshot

A post shared by Tor Torre (@tortorre) on

I also used this palette in creating this short video about wearing smoky eyes with light, red and dark lips.

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For more information about the cost of the eye shadows and the 3-well palette, click here to be brought to my previous blog.

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Let me say that the products I am using has worked for me and it might not necessarily work for you. Always be discerning when purchasing cosmetics or skin care products. Always read the label and the literature! Always do a patch test before you purchase a product for the first time to see that you are not allergic to any of the ingredients listed.

This blog is not sponsored. The products that are shown here are the products that I always use, love and live by.

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Say “Hi!” on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/tortorre

 

 

 

 

 

 

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My Neutral Eye Shadow Palette

~ tor ~ 2 Comments
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Top (left to right): Fresco, Cafe Au Lait, Truffle                                                                                       Bottom (left to right): Blanc, Buttercream, Sesame

My chosen neutral Palette:

On the top left is Fresco, a neutral beige brown. It registers as a pinkish brown. I use this mainly as a transition shade or as a “diffuser”; to lighten a darker shade of eye shadow.

On the top middle is Cafe Au Lait, a taupe-y brown color that I primarily use to contour the nose or to enhance the socket line of the eye. It’s a very neutral grey/brown color that casts a right amount of color to mimic a shadow.

On the top right is Truffle, a medium rich brown with some red in it. This is what I use to intensify the depth of the socket line. I use this on the lower lash line to open up the eye. I also use this as a contour powder for the cheek bones especially when I am working with a person who just came from the sun or has a fading tan. I feel that the red pigments in this eye shadow help enhances the tan with out making it look to ashy. But I have to say that you have to be very light handed with this product because it is extremely pigmented. Use with light feathery strokes.

On the lower left is Blanc, a sheer white. I use this as a highlight on the brow bone area (right under the brow) or at the inner corner of the eye to open it up. This has very minimal shimmer in it so it doesn’t reflect that much light. This is very useful when you are filming.

On the lower middle is Buttercream, a light neutral yellow. I use this on the entire lid area to diminish it’s redness. It also helps brighten the eye while making it look like natural skin.

On the lower left is Sesame, a neutral yellow. A much more muted version of Buttercream.

These eye shadows are highly pigmented. The powder is very fine and it goes on smoothly on the lids. I use the eye shadows alone or I use this with an eye shadow base either The Eye Basics from Laura Mercier (click to be brough to my blog entry about it)  or The NARS Smudge Proof Eye Shadow Base (click to be brought to my blog entry about it) to make them last longer.

Talc is the main ingredient in these eye shadows. Do not use a wet brush technique when applying these. You’re eye shadow will clump up and look messy. These eye shadows are meant to be used with a dry brush.

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I have been a Laura Mercier fan even before I was a professional makeup artist and I have been using these six eye shadow colors from the brand the day I turned pro.

These six eye shadows are a personal choice. These are the colors I always use to give the eye definition and depth when I am creating a natural eye look . These are matte colors, they do not reflect light. The dark shades are perfect to use in creating contours or for reshaping the eye.

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6-Well Custom Compact
6-well Custom Compact

These eye shadows are full sized and bought individually. For clarification, the custom compacts are empty upon purchase. You pop in the individual eye shadows into the compact.

The reason why I appreciate the custom compact is because it allows me to create my own palette.

In the long run, once an you run out of an eye shadow, you pop it out and replace it with a new one. In my palette, Fresco, Blanc and Truffle are the latest “refills”.

3-well Custom Compact
The 3-well Custom Compact

I do appreciate a few consumer palettes in the market today, but I find it to be a bit frustrating when my favorite color runs out. Rendering my palette “fractured”, especially if its non-refillable.

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What you see in the pictures, are my personal choice of eye shadows that fit inside a 6-well or a 3-well custom compact. I find it much more easier to handle when I’m working and it allows me to organize the eye shadows that I constantly use. This makes it easier to store inside my kit as well.

If you are fan of the Laura Mercier brand, you can pop in your favorite eye colors, some cream blush, and a cake eyeliner to create your own makeup boudoir. This allows you to create your own palette that suits your style, your taste and your needs.

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I bought these Matte Eye Colours at the Laura Mercier counter in Rustan’s Department Store and they retail for Php 1250 each.

The 6-well Custom Compact retails for Php 695 and the 3-well Custom Compact reatials for Php 495.

Laura Mercier has 18 Matte Eye Colours, click here to see them.

Ingredients:

Talc, Zea Mays (Corn) Starch, Zinc Stearate, Mica, Silica, Dimethicone, Isonoyl Isononanoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dimethiconol, Chlorphenesin, Potassium Sorbate, Synthetic Beeswax, Tetrasodium EDTA. (+/-): CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), CI 77492 (Iron Oxides), CI 77499 (Iron Oxides), CI 77510 (Ferric Ferrocyanide), CI 75470 (Carmine), CI 77007 (Ultramarines).

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Let me say that the products I am using has worked for me and it might not necessarily work for you. Always be discerning when purchasing cosmetics or skin care products. Always read the label and the literature! Always do a patch test before you purchase a product for the first time to see that you are not allergic to any of the ingredients listed.

This blog is not sponsored. The products that are shown here are the products that I always use, love and live by.

~

Say “Hi!” on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/tortorre
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Bobbi Brown Gel Liner

~ tor ~ 3 Comments
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Bobbi Brown Gel Liner in Black Ink

My favorite black eyeliner to use is the gel eyeliner in Black Ink from Bobbi Brown Cosmetics. This gel liner is extremely long wearing, which is important when you are living in this country (The Philippines).

I love the creamy consistency of this eyeliner. I find it easy to handle and it glides on effortlessly along the lash line. I use this product with my favorite eyeliner brushes  to achieve different eyeliner looks as needed. Click here to read the blog about those brushes. The only catch is that gel liners dry fast. So you have to work with this product as quickly as possible.

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swatching

This gel eyeliner is extremely black. I use this a lot when I “tight line” the water line on the upper lashes. This gives the eyelashes a fuller look. Since it’s a gel product, it doesn’t smudge easily or breakdown as fast as an eye pencil or liquid eyeliner.

“Tight lining” is a great way of deepening any eyeliner look. I did this in my 50’s makeup look makeup video. Do check it out here to see what I mean.

This is also great as a complementary product when creating a smoky eye. It’s easy to soften the line created by this product. Just make sure to work it while it is still 50 – 80 percent wet. Best to diffuse the line with a smudge brush.

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As I stated earlier, the only problem I have with gel liners, in general, is that they dry fast. Really fast. So when ever you are working with this, make sure that every time you open the pot, immediately close it. Open it only as needed. You have to be mindful with this. Once the product dries up, it’s game over. It will be very difficult to even pick it up from the pot. if you do pick it up, once you start applying it on your lids, you get lot s of fall out. Take note that this product is heavier and more pigmented than eye shadow. Once this falls and stains your makeup base, it would be very difficult to clean it up.

There was a time I was so busy with work, that I ended up leaving the pot open all night. When I saw it the next day, it looked matte. The shine was gone and it was difficult to pick up the product.

I ended up buying a new pot.

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I scoured the internet for any way of reviving the product. The only process I found appealing to me was to microwave the gel eyeliner for 10 seconds. After I tried it, I did see that the top layer of the gel liner was shiny again, but alas once I started using it, it did not work.

I had a thought and decided to experiment since. I believe that heat with bring this product to life. I decided to leave the old gel eyeliner pot in my car. This way, The product would heat up slowly, aided by the humidity inside the car. I also believe that cooling down the product slowly will help.

A day later, I took it out and used it on myself. The product glided smoothly on my lids just like the way it used to. I did not feel any adverse effect (itching or irritation) on my lids. The most important thing is, it has kept its wearability and durability. A few days later, upon checking, the product still appears moist and it’s workability. Let me say that, I will only use the old gel eyeliner on my self.

As a disclaimer, what works for me might not necessarily work for you. Always be cautionary with anything that you do with your makeup.

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This product does not come cheap. It retails for Php 1450 at Rustan’s Department Store.

Bobbi Brown’s Gel Eyeliner comes in 18 shades to suit every eye color and the party girl with in you. To know more about this product visit their webpage by clicking here.

 

“Natural” False Eyelashes from The Landmark

~ tor ~ 3 Comments
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False Eyelashes

 

I only understood how coveted having eyelashes were to a woman when I became a make-up artist. There have been countless of times I have been asked by the regular woman, top model or the occasional big time woman celebrity if my eyelashes were real. You see, I have been genetically blessed to have long and curly eyelashes (click here). My eyelashes, time and again, have proven to be ice breakers and great conversation starters.

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Usually the mood gets lighter once the “ice” is broken. I start asking the woman I am working with if she has ever worn false eyelashes. That’s when I start gauging what kind of false eyelashes I am going to use on her. Most women are “game” to wear them, while some are a bit apprehensive. The cause for concern about wearing false eyelashes is the comfort level. Usually, the added weigh on the lashes makes it uncomfortable. Sometimes ill fitting false eyelashes or using the wrong eyelash glue also adds to the discomfort and uneasiness. Truthfully though, at the end of the day, it boils down to a woman’s personality and spunk to wear them.

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I have a stock of false eyelashes in my kit that I have been using for the past 7 something years of being a professional makeup artist. It has always been the preferred choice of the women I work with. In advertising, most of the jobs I get involves the “no make-up make-up look”; these false eyelashes pass the screen test most of the time.

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“Natural” false eyelashes from The Landmark with it’s packaging open.

 

The false eyelashes from The Landmark comes in varying designs of thickness, length and style. My style of choice is labeled as “Natural”. It is very light and it looks very natural. I don’t mean to carry my on throne, but reason why I chose this kind of false eyelashes is because they look like my very own eyelashes.

10846628_10152906940681661_24953724_nThe “Natural” false eyelashes from The Landmark, is very easy to handle. The band that hold the lashes is quite thin, and the individual lashes are light. They only add very minimal weight to ones natural lashes, making discomfort minimal.

These false eyelashes are designed in such a way that the individual lashes starts off short (to be applied on the inner corner of the eye), gradually increasing in length towards the middle of the band , which then decreases minimally towards the end of the band.

When measuring this kind of false eyelashes, make sure to cut the band from the outer corner. Once you cut from the inner corner of the lash band, you will loose the indicator for which lash goes on for which eye.

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I used the “Natural” false eyelashes from The Landmark on a few projects of mine.

I used it for a TVC for Penshoppe, click here to see it.

I used if for a TVC for Pantene (Indonesia Airing), click here to see it.

I used it for a TVC for Carefree, click here to see it.

I used it on Alamela Rowan for a print ad for CARA Welfare Philippines, click here to see it.

I also used it on all Bridal Editorials I had with Metro Weddings, click here to see it.

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“Natural” False Eyelashes from the Landmark in it’s packaging.

I highly recommend these lashes to ANYONE.Aside from the things I stated earlier, this is a practical purchase based on the fact that, most false eyelashes worn by women for special occasions end up on the garbage can at the end of the night. The  “Natural” false eyelashes from The Landmark retails for Php 49.50 (US $1.25).

This is good to use for practice. This is also good to use on the bottom lashes for effect.

You can also reuse this, as long as you clean it using a mild makeup remover to remove glue from the band and makeup from the lashes. Don’t throw away the packaging, you can store it there for future use. That way you are still able to keep the lashes in shape.

 

 

 

 

 

Sephora Collection Long Lasting Kohl Pencil in White and Beige

~ tor ~ 1 Comment

10808173_10152843444806661_1506251092_nI have a love/hate relationship with white eyeliner.

The reason why is because, based on my own observation, most women tend to over do it. They end up looking like a snake that’s ready to pounce on prey as soon as it crosses in front of them. Seriously though, it can look intimidating and fake. So my dear friends, as the saying goes, less is more.

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Using beige eyeliner on your water line can subtly open up your eyes in a natural manner.

Using white eyeliner is best to use under these circumstances:

  1. You are going to be on stage. The white eyeliner helps your eyes appear bigger and more expressive from a distance.
  2. You are going to be photographed for a fashion spread. I have been told that, white eyeliner helps making editing easier if retouching is needed.
  3. You are creating a character. May it be for Halloween, Drag, or makeup experiments. Click here for an example.
  4. You can also do this to enhance the shape of your eyebrow by using this as a highlighter right on the edge of your brow. Again, less is some and blending is the key.

Other than that, for everyday use, there’s the beige eyeliner. This color appears more natural once applied to the water line of your eye. It makes the eyes appear bigger and wider in a subtle manner.

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10811515_10152843444911661_1735247479_nA staple in my kit is Sephora’s Long Lasting Kohl Pencil in white and beige. I end up using beige most of the time. It’s just a personal preference.

This eyeliner pencil retails for 10 USD. At this price, it is a really good buy.

This pencil is also longer than most standard eyeliner pencils that I own. It measures at around 6 inches while other brands measures between 4 to 5 inches. So this will last quite a while.

It says that this kohl pencil is long lasting. But that really depends on the wearer. If you are extremely oily, then it will breakdown faster  than other women of different skin type. If you are constantly touching / scratching your eyes, any eye product will not last past a minute after doing so. Remember that these two products are applied at the water line most of the time, so you would need to retouch this throughout the day.

Sephora’s Long Lasting Kohl Pencil is soft and very easy to handle and manipulate. It is creamy in texture to it and it adheres to the skin easily with a subtle amount of pressure. This product is buildable to the intensity that you desire. As posted Sephora’s US website, it comes in 6 colors (see below). I think 08 Pure White is an addition for specific markets only.

Screen shot 2014-11-24 at 4.58.06 PM
as taken from their website from left to right the colors are: 01 Intense Black, 03 Mysterious Blue, 04 Smoky Green,      05 Mystic Purple, 06 Deep Brown, 07 Infinite Beige

 

As of this writting, there isn’t a Sephora Store in the Philippines. I purchased these pencils for 11 SGD each while I was curiously navigating through Sephora in ION Orchard during a trip to Singapore in January 2014.  To my knowledge in South East Asia, aside from Singapore, there are Sephora Stores in Bangkok (Siam Center) and in Malaysia. Drop by these locations when you are traveling, Sephora is one big play ground for makeup lovers.

Click here to know more about Sephora’s various international locations.

Nars Eye Shadow Base

~ tor ~ 8 Comments

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My other favorite eyeshadow base is from NARS Cosmetics. It is called Smudge Proof Eyeshadow Base. In my other entry (click here), I talked about using a different product when I am working with neutral colors. For this entry, I will be discussing the reasons why I use NARS eyeshadow base when I am working with vivid colors.

First of all, this eyeshadow base is clear. I apply a little of the product on the eyelids and spread it all over, as far as the brow bone, with my finger or a brush. This product dries clear. An indication is that the eyelid will mattify, leaving the skin tone visible through a layer of the product.

The reason why I use this with vivid colors is because this eyeshadow base doesn’t come in color. So whatever eyeshadow I will place on the lid, it will register the same vivid color as seen in the pot. I especially use this on clients who are acidic. As we all know, a person who is “acidic” experience a change in the color of their makeup. I have observed that the Smudge Proof Eyeshadow Base from NARS delays the “oxidation” process. This eyeshadow base has incredible long wear and durability. Very minimal creasing occurs throughout the day.

One observation I have made with those who have oily lids, if you don’t put a generous amount of product, the oil tends to seep through messing up with the eye shadow. You get creasing, smudging and running… especially if you are wearing cake eyeliner. So always put more than the usual amount of this eyeshadow base on those with oily lids.

You can also use this to set the color of your eyebrows. I spread a minimal amount on the brows with an angled eyebrow brush or a spoolie.

NARS‘ Sumdge Proof Eyeshadow Base is available at the Nars Botique at Rustan’s Department stores. It retails for Php 1750.

 

 

Laura Mercier Eye Basics (Eyeshadow Base)

~ tor ~ 5 Comments
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Laura Mercier Eye Basics in Flax (top), Eyebright ( lower left) and Buff (lower right)

Eye shadow base, is a product that is used to add durability and longevity to any eyeshadow or eyeliner  product. That’s why, I always use and an eye shadow base before I apply anything on the eyelid.

My “go-to” product is Laura Mercier’s Eye Basics. I use this when I am using neutral eye shadow colors on the eyes (think shades of: brown, taupe, cream, black, gray and gold) . Laura Mercier’s Eye Basics come in color, usually with a beige or yellow base. Since neutral eye shadows and eye basics are of the same neutral palette, they enhance each other. Though I have used various eye shadows with Laura Mercier’s Eye Basics, some bright colors do not register as vividly as I imagined. That’s because the base color of the Laura Mercier’s Eye Basics dims it.

Laura Mercier’s Eye Basics in “Eyebright” has a white – blue base which I use when I am working with blue toned eye shadows only. Why? We are playing with colors here. Remember art class? If I place a yellow eye shadow on top of Eyebright, which has a blue base, what would happen? It might turn the eye shadow slightly green. We wouldn’t want that right? Not unless intended.

I recommend this product to women who don’t like using eye shadow. This product registers a very natural color on your lids. It emphasizes your eyes without making it look over done. As a  plus, long-term use of this product can lead to healthier eye lids *.

I used this product in every single commercial that I have worked on. Especially on those who are very specific about wanting the no makeup look. I apply very little of the Eye Basics with my finger or a brush on the eyelid and I’m good. I have also observed that this product lasts all day and all night with minimal creasing, not to mention being exposed under harsh lights and various weather conditions.  I was initially worried about the longevity and performance of this cream based product. It has proven itself time and again and now, I never have to worry.

Laura Mercier’s Eye Basics some how makes your eye makeup water-resistant too. That includes the eye shadow and eye liner as well. I have been told by a few models and some private clients that their eye make up has survived a dip in the pool, the crashing of waves or a warm shower on set.

I promise you, It will be one of the best purchases you’ll ever make.

Screen shot 2014-07-02 at 2.18.56 PMLaura Mercier’s Eye Basics comes in six colors to choose from. You can never go wrong (see screen capture on the left).

It is available at the Laura Mercier counter in Rustan’s department store and retails for Php 995.

 

 

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*This product has Vitamin A, C and E components that helps in slowing down the oxidation process of the skin. Visit their website (click here) to read the full benefits of this product.

Ingredients:

Eyebright, Cotton, Flax, Linen, Wheat, Buff, Peach): Isododecane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Cera Alba (Beeswax), Cera Carnauba (Copernicia Cerifera Wax), Ozokerite, Talc, Lanolin Acid, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Propylene Carbonate, Methylparaben, Phenoxyethanol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Isopropyl Myristate, Propylparaben, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Euphrasia Officinalis Extract, Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract. (+/-): CI 77019 (Mica), CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), CI 77007 (Ultramarines), CI 77510 (Ferric Ferrocyanide), CI 77499 (Iron Oxides), CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), CI 77492 (Iron Oxides), CI 77163 (Bismuth Oxychloride).